Continuing along the southern shores of Lake Superior our route took us to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (UP).The primary purpose of this leg was to visit Isle Royale National Park.
Isle Royale is a rugged, isolated island in the upper reaches of Lake Superior. Roadless, and only reachable by boat or float plane, the island is largely untouched by outside influences.and serves as a living laboratory and United States Biosphere Reserve. Primitive and remote, Isle Royale is a backpackers paradise. It and the surrounding 400 smaller islands also provide fantastic boating, kayaking and canoeing opportunities.
Reaching Isle Royale in the shoulder season can be a bit complicated with the reduced flight and ferry schedules.We ended up leaving our trailer in Copper Harbor (at the tip of the peninsula), then shuttled down to Houghton, MI for an overnight stay before catching a float plane to the park.We stayed at the Rock Harbor lodge for two nights on the east side of the island, then returned on the Isle Royale Queen Ferry back to Copper Harbor.
I would be remiss in not mentioning our shuttle ride from Copper Harbor to Houghton.Our driver, Eli, from the Keweenaw Adventure Company was simply fantastic.He filled the nearly hour long drive with history of the small towns we passed as we traveled down Copper Country, including a short side trip into Calumet, MI, one of the larger towns that developed during the boom years of copper mining in the area (late 1800’s to early 1900’s).
We would certainly like to return to Isle Royale for a more extensive visit, like the 40+ mile backpacking trip across the length of the island.Unfortunately, in spite of hiking 25 miles over three days, we didn’t get to see any of the resident Moose or wolves.Plus, between a fire, COVID and the end of season (the lodge and visitor center closed the day after we left), we weren’t allowed to kayak or canoe, the main restaurant was closed, and they were quickly running out of limited supplies…and worse of all, the beer ran out after day one!
Portage Lake Lift Bridge, Houghton, MI – The world’s heaviest and widest, double deck vertical-lift bridge spans the Keweenaw Waterway, linking the towns of Houghton and Hancock. The waterway provides a shipping short cut to the western side of Lake Superior. Once used for trains as well as cars, they now use the lower deck in winter for snowmobile traffic.
Houghton County Courthouse, Houghton, MI – The largest city in Copper Country, Houghton is also home to Michigan Technological University, founded as a public research college in 1885. Set high on a hill over looking the city, the Victorian courthouse (dedicated in 1887) was created in part with red sandstone and copper from the Upper Peninsula, and serves as an example of the area’s prosperity during the late 19th century copper boom.
Sara’s Cave, Isle Royale NP, MI – Having arrived early, we had some time to explore the Rock Harbor area before checking into the lodge. First hike, a 4 mile loop to Sara’s Cave…formed by sea action when lake levels were significantly higher.
Rock Harbor Lodge, Isle Royale NP, MI – The view from our room.
Stoll Memorial Trail, Isle Royale NP, MI – One of the many wooden walkways along the trails.
Stoll Memorial Trail, Isle Royale NP, MI – A glimpse of Isle Royale’s rugged southern shore
Scoville Point, Isle Royale NP, MI – Julie looks to the north east as we reach the eastern tip of the island’s south end.
Mt. Franklin, Isle Royale NP, MI – We started day two with an 11 mile hike that included Mt. Franklin, one of the peaks along the Greenstone Ridge Trail, which traverses the center length of the island. Named in honor of Benjamin Franklin, we were treated to a wonderful panoramic view of the rugged north shore and Canada in the distance. We even got a little cell service!
Tobin Harbor, Isle Royale NP, MI – A short walk from the lodge to the sea plane docks to enjoy the setting sun.
Ojibway Tower, Isle Royale NP, MI – For our last morning on the island we got up early to secure of small boat rental. A 45 minute cruise down the bay got us to Daisy Farm, a shoreside campground about 7.5 miles from Rock Harbor. From there we climbed to another peak on the Greenstone Ridge Trail. While we were able to climb the tower, the morning fog didn’t cooperate with the view.
Rock Harbor Lighthouse, Isle Royale NP, MI – Although no longer illuminated, the Rock Harbor Lighthouse, completed in 1855, is one of the most visited in the park.
Rock Harbor, Isle Royale NP, MI – Our ride back to Copper Harbor.
